Perth

The Perth issue, November 2026

Perth

Perth sits in isolation on the edge of the Australian continent, wedged between the desert of the Outback and the cold expanse of the Indian Ocean.

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The Perth reading list

All 27 Perth stories

More from the Perth issue

Swan Valley at Your Elbow: Perth's Wine Region 25 Minutes from the CBD

Swan Valley at Your Elbow: Perth's Wine Region 25 Minutes from the CBD

Adeline Tan
Planning a Perth Weekend Around Tame Impala at RAC Arena

Planning a Perth Weekend Around Tame Impala at RAC Arena

Femke de Vries
Perth Wildflower Walks and the Spring Day Trips Around Them

Perth Wildflower Walks and the Spring Day Trips Around Them

Femke de Vries
Where Perth Goes Vertical: Kings Park From Canopy to River

Where Perth Goes Vertical: Kings Park From Canopy to River

Femke de Vries
Shipwrecks and Sundowners: Perth's Sunset Coast from Cottesloe to Scarborough

Shipwrecks and Sundowners: Perth's Sunset Coast from Cottesloe to Scarborough

Femke de Vries
Perth's Biggest Views for the Price of a Bus Ticket

Perth's Biggest Views for the Price of a Bus Ticket

Femke de Vries
West of Everything: How the Swan River Made Perth

West of Everything: How the Swan River Made Perth

Femke de Vries
A Perth family weekend built around the AWESOME Festival

A Perth family weekend built around the AWESOME Festival

Femke de Vries
Above the Grid: Perth's Rooftop Bar Scene

Above the Grid: Perth's Rooftop Bar Scene

Femke de Vries
Swimming with Wild Dolphins off Perth in September
Tours and tickets

Swimming with Wild Dolphins off Perth in September

Femke de Vries
Gold Pours, Bullion and Vaults at the Perth Mint
Tours and tickets

Gold Pours, Bullion and Vaults at the Perth Mint

Femke de Vries
Sandboarding the White Dunes of Lancelin from Perth
Tours and tickets

Sandboarding the White Dunes of Lancelin from Perth

Femke de Vries
Rottnest Island: Perth's Quokka-Filled Day Trip

Rottnest Island: Perth's Quokka-Filled Day Trip

Femke de Vries
How to Build a Perth Weekend Around the Running Festival

How to Build a Perth Weekend Around the Running Festival

Femke de Vries
The Pinnacles at night: a desert fantasy just outside Perth

The Pinnacles at night: a desert fantasy just outside Perth

Femke de Vries
Walking the Perth Hills Waterfalls After Winter Rain

Walking the Perth Hills Waterfalls After Winter Rain

Femke de Vries
Margaret River Caves and Spring Vines on a Day Trip from Perth
Tours and tickets

Margaret River Caves and Spring Vines on a Day Trip from Perth

Femke de Vries
Driving South from Perth to Busselton Jetty and the Capes

Driving South from Perth to Busselton Jetty and the Capes

Femke de Vries
Perth's Scallop Trail: From Fremantle Boats to Backyard Coals

Perth's Scallop Trail: From Fremantle Boats to Backyard Coals

Adeline Tan
The Furnace That Built Perth: Inside the Working Mint

The Furnace That Built Perth: Inside the Working Mint

Femke de Vries
Perth Is Not a Layover

Perth Is Not a Layover

Adeline Tan
Six Seasons, Not Four: Reading Perth Through the Noongar Calendar

Six Seasons, Not Four: Reading Perth Through the Noongar Calendar

Femke de Vries

An insider’s read on Perth

For tens of thousands of years, the Whadjuk Noongar people have maintained a deep connection to this land, which they call Boorloo. British colonization in 1829 established a remote penal colony, leaving behind a legacy of limestone convict architecture, particularly in nearby Fremantle. The gold rushes of the late 19th century and the iron ore booms of the 21st century transformed Perth from a sleepy outpost into a wealthy metropolis.

Today, the local character is relaxed but highly driven, shaped by a climate that demands an outdoor lifestyle and a geographic isolation that fosters self-reliance.

Perth
Perth, Australia

The city is defined by its intense, blinding light, a relentless blue sky, and the Swan River winding through its core.

From our Perth guide

Six neighbourhoods, six ways to stay

Pick the neighbourhood first and the trip follows. Each one opens its own guide, with the hotels inside it.

Perth CBD

Perth CBD

Business travelers and first-time visitors who want central transport links. The trade-off is a quiet street scene on weekend mornings.

The commercial heart of the city, dominated by glass skyscrapers, historic stone facades, and a network of revitalized laneways filled with basement bars and high-end restaurants.

Where to stay High-end heritage hotels and modern luxury high-rises near Elizabeth Quay.

Stay in Perth CBD
Northbridge

Northbridge

Art lovers and nightlife seekers. The trade-off is that streets can become loud and rowdy on Friday and Saturday nights.

Located just north of the central train line, this is the cultural and nightlife epicenter, home to the state's major museums, galleries, Chinatown, and a dense concentration of bars.

Where to stay Boutique design hotels and independent guesthouses.

Stay in Northbridge
Fremantle

Fremantle

Heritage enthusiasts, weekend travelers, and coastal lovers. The trade-off is a 30-minute train ride to the CBD.

A historic port town where the Swan River meets the ocean. It features Victorian-era streetscapes, a bohemian arts scene, active fishing harbors, and craft breweries.

Where to stay Converted historic warehouses, boutique pubs, and seaside apartments.

Stay in Fremantle
Cottesloe

Cottesloe

Beachgoers and swimmers. The trade-off is high accommodation prices and limited late-night dining options.

An affluent coastal suburb defined by towering Norfolk Island pines, terraced lawns overlooking the ocean, and a relaxed, sun-bleached lifestyle.

Where to stay Oceanfront apartments and boutique beachside rentals.

Stay in Cottesloe
Leederville

Leederville

Young professionals and coffee enthusiasts. The trade-off is limited luxury accommodation options.

A hip, inner-northern enclave centered around Oxford Street, known for its independent cinema, record stores, and casual alfresco dining.

Where to stay Mid-range apartments and local homestays.

Stay in Leederville
Subiaco

Subiaco

Families and travelers seeking a quiet, leafy base close to the city. The trade-off is a quieter nightlife scene.

A leafy, historic suburb that has transitioned from a bohemian hub to an upscale residential area with high-end boutiques, theater spaces, and refined dining.

Where to stay Serviced apartments and polished mid-range hotels.

Stay in Subiaco

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The Perth guide

Where to eat, drink and look, how to get around, and what locals expect of you. Open any chapter.

Where to eat

Dining

17 places
Island Market Trigg
Trigg€€€

Island Market Trigg

It sits directly on the dunes, offering views of the surf alongside a Mediterranean-leaning menu that highlights wood-fired seafood.

Signature: Wood-fired local octopus with tahini and sumac

Kailis Fish Market Cafe
Fremantle€€

Kailis Fish Market Cafe

A historic waterfront institution on the Fremantle fishing boat harbor, serving fresh seafood straight from the docks.

Signature: Local rock lobster served with chips and garlic butter

The Shorehouse
Swanbourne€€€

The Shorehouse

Overlooks the water from an elevated deck, offering a refined coastal dining experience focused on fresh, light seafood dishes.

Signature: Blue swimmer crab linguine with chili and lemon

Rockpool Bar & Grill
Burswood€€€€

Rockpool Bar & Grill

Located within the Crown complex, this restaurant features an open kitchen where premium, dry-aged beef is cooked over wood fire.

Signature: Cape Grim dry-aged rib eye on the bone

The Meat & Wine Co
Perth CBD€€€

The Meat & Wine Co

Housed in the restored, heritage-listed Palace Hotel, combining historic architecture with a dedicated dry-aging program.

Signature: Monte premium grain-fed rump eye steak

Fibber McGee's
Leederville€€

Fibber McGee's

An authentic Irish pub that owns its own organic farm, dry-aging its beef in-house for exceptional flavor.

Signature: Dry-aged sirloin steak with traditional colcannon

Duende
Leederville€€

Duende

Perth's original tapas bar, offering an intimate, dimly lit space with a deep selection of Spanish wines and sherries.

Signature: Sweetcorn croquetas with manchego cheese

Pinchos
Leederville€

Pinchos

A lively, corner-spot tapas bar serving authentic, bite-sized Basque-style pinchos and larger share plates at accessible prices.

Signature: Pork belly pincho with PX sherry glaze

Andaluz Bar & Tapas
Perth CBD€€€

Andaluz Bar & Tapas

Tucked away in a basement off St Georges Terrace, featuring cozy leather booths and a refined Spanish-influenced menu.

Signature: Slow-cooked beef cheek with parsnip puree

Wildflower
Perth CBD€€€€

Wildflower

Occupies a glass-walled rooftop space atop the COMO Treasury, serving a menu designed around the six seasons of the Noongar calendar.

Signature: Marron with native finger lime and sea celery

Hearth
Perth CBD€€€€

Hearth

Located at the base of the Ritz-Carlton, this restaurant focuses on the traditional art of cooking over open embers using local hardwoods.

Signature: Smoked dry-aged Wagin duck breast

Lulu La Delizia
Subiaco€€€

Lulu La Delizia

A small, award-winning eatery dedicated to the premium artisanal pasta and culinary traditions of Friuli and Veneto.

Signature: Tagliolini with house-cured lard and rosemary

Alfred's Kitchen
Guildford€

Alfred's Kitchen

Operating since 1946, this roadside spot serves burgers around an open fire pit in the historic suburb of Guildford.

Signature: The Alfred Special burger with a bowl of pea and ham soup

The Re Store
Leederville€

The Re Store

A legendary Italian deli that has been serving the city's most famous continental rolls since the mid-20th century.

Signature: The Continental Roll with the lot (three meats and mixed pickles)

Taka's Kitchen
Perth CBD€

Taka's Kitchen

A long-running, no-nonsense basement spot known for serving fast, reliable, and highly affordable Japanese comfort food.

Signature: Chicken katsu donburi

Mother
Fremantle€€€

Mother

Housed in a spacious, minimalist warehouse, this venue offers a sophisticated, 100% plant-based menu paired with natural wines.

Signature: King oyster mushroom scallops with parsnip cream

Double Rainbow
Northbridge€€

Double Rainbow

Located inside The Rechabite, this fast-paced Asian-fusion kitchen offers an extensive, creative vegan menu alongside its standard options.

Signature: Szechuan salt and pepper tofu with black vinegar

Timing

When to visit

Spring (September to November)

Mild temperatures and minimal rainfall make this the ideal time for exploring. The surrounding bushland erupts with wild orchids and native wildflowers, and the coastal winds are generally light.

Summer (December to February)

Hot and dry, with temperatures frequently exceeding 40 degrees Celsius. Relief arrives in the late afternoon with the 'Freo Doctor,' a strong sea breeze that cools the coastal strip.

Autumn (March to May)

Characterized by calm, golden days with warm sea temperatures and cool evenings. This is the most reliable season for outdoor dining and coastal walks.

Winter (June to August)

The wettest time of year, with cool temperatures and occasional storms. While outdoor activities are limited, the indoor cultural calendar and cozy pub scenes are active.

What it costs

Budgeting

Backpacker
€70-90
Mid-range
€180-250
Luxury
€450+

Logistics

Getting around

Map of Perth

From the airport

The Airport Line train connects Perth Airport (T1, T2, T3, and T4) directly to Perth Station in the CBD. The journey takes approximately 20 minutes and costs a standard multi-zone fare. Rideshares and taxis operate from designated ranks outside all terminals.

Public transit

Transperth operates an integrated network of trains, buses, and ferries. The central city features a Free Transit Zone (FTZ) where travel on any bus or train is free, provided you start and finish within the zone boundaries.

Passes & tickets

The SmartRider card is the local reusable transit card. It offers a discount on all standard fares and can be purchased at transit centers and select retail outlets for a small fee (under €10).

On foot

The CBD and Northbridge are highly walkable, laid out on flat, straightforward grids. However, Perth is a sprawling metropolis; reaching coastal suburbs or historic Fremantle requires using the rail network.

Local etiquette

Safety & etiquette

  • Always swim between the red and yellow flags on patrolled beaches; rips are common and powerful.
  • Tipping is not mandatory in Australia, as service staff are paid high award wages. However, leaving a 10% tip for exceptional restaurant service is increasingly common.
  • Respect fire bans. During the hot summer months, total fire bans are frequently declared, making outdoor campfires and certain barbecues illegal.

Travel smart

Practical tips

  1. Take advantage of the Free Transit Zone (FTZ) in the CBD to save on transport costs.
  2. Apply SPF 50+ sunscreen every morning, even on overcast days, as the UV index in Western Australia is consistently extreme.
  3. Be aware that retail shops in the CBD close early, often by 5:00 PM on Saturdays and Sundays, and 5:30 PM on weekdays, except for Friday nights.
  4. Book your ferry tickets and bike rentals for Rottnest Island well in advance if visiting during school holidays or summer weekends.
  5. Download the Emergency+ app before heading out on regional day trips, as mobile coverage can be sparse in national parks.
  6. Keep an eye out for magpies during the spring nesting season (September to October), as they are known to swoop at pedestrians and cyclists.

Before you go

Perth FAQs

When is the best time to see the wildflowers?

The wildflower season peaks between September and November, when the botanic gardens and surrounding national parks are covered in blooms.

How do I get to Rottnest Island?

Regular passenger ferries run daily from Fremantle, Northport, and Barrack Street Jetty in the Perth CBD.

Is the tap water safe to drink?

Yes, tap water throughout Perth is treated to high standards and is completely safe to drink.

What is the 'Freo Doctor'?

It is the local term for the cooling afternoon sea breeze that blows from the southwest during summer, bringing relief from the heat.

Do I need to hire a car?

If you are staying within the CBD, Northbridge, and Fremantle, public transport is sufficient. However, a car is highly recommended for exploring the beaches, Swan Valley, or national parks.